Halima Aden: "I sacrificed my career to give other models a chance to express themselves"

When Helmiye Aden, the first veiled model, retired last year, she hoped that other Muslim women would not find themselves in the difficult position of having to choose between their religious beliefs and their careers.

I want the girls to know that Halima made a "difficult decision" for the whole team, says the 23-year-old Somali-American. "I sacrificed my career so that they feel comfortable expressing themselves in any context."

Some major fashion companies are currently considering ways to ensure that Muslim models are not subjected to the same pressures that Halima faced.

I think what Halima did was a wake-up call for the fashion industry, I think other brands and designers were asking: What did we do wrong?” says fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger.

American fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger has worked extensively with Halima on several fashion campaigns and the BBC caught up with the two to talk to them about the need to address racism and discrimination in the fashion industry.

Halima Aden, the most prominent veiled model, carries her prayer rug with her

Halima Aden, the veiled model, is retiring for religious reasons

"My hijab began to shrink"

Halima says: "I reached a place where I became far from my true image, and my hijab began to shrink. It was dark in which Halima was dressed) while they asked her to go find a bathroom to change her clothes in. I didn't feel good seeing that we were not treated as equals."

Another time, a place was designated for her to change clothes, but she could only reach it by traversing the area designated for changing men's clothes.

I found myself in a very uncomfortable situation,” says Halima.

It's upsetting to hear that some designers, or some people, will try to change the way you look, change who you are. I really think that's a flaw in the fashion industry," Hilfiger comments.

Tommy Hilfiger has always advocated greater diversity and inclusivity in the fashion industry. In 2020, he pledged $15 million over three years to increase diversity.

He was the first designer to make way for Halima to walk the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week.

Halima was also the first burkini-wearing model in Sports Illustrated when she donned a modest swimwear designed by Tommy Hilfiger.

“I remember we made a special swimsuit for you,” says the designer, and Halima comments that wearing a burkini was “an amazing experience.”

"Countries like France ban it in public pools and beaches. So I think we took a bold stand when the photos were published in Sports Illustrated. They made a big difference."

But breaking boundaries and challenging stereotypes has not been easy.

"An inconvenience to people"

Halima says: “I felt there was a very fine line (between two different worlds) and I had to walk it, and this sometimes bothered members of the Muslim community. I would often get comments like: This burkini shows a lot of body shape. But at the time I was constantly texted by young girls saying, 'We want to see you look unique. We want to see your headscarf wrapped differently.'"

The BBC spoke to a number of models from different backgrounds who wanted their experience in the fashion industry.

Ramla Osopli, a 22-year-old Muslim model, says some of the people she worked with didn't try to understand what her religious belief allowed her to wear.

"One of the designers asked me if I could wear a dress with cutouts that revealed the body, and we argued for a long time about it because I told them that I wasn't ready to wear clothes that were too revealing."

"Another time, a photographer asked me if I was ready to change and we were in the middle of the park. I was so shocked."

All of this sounds familiar to Halima. "It's heartbreaking that the designer didn't realize he had a veiled model and she wouldn't feel comfortable wearing a revealing dress," she says.

Time for a change

Tommy Hilfiger is disturbed by Ramla's story and supports striving to address this type of discrimination. "I think it's disgraceful," he says. "I think it's disrespectful. It really pisses me off. It's embarrassing to be part of a company and part of a community that has such outrageous ideas. I hope to be a leader in this change. I really believe it comes from the top." down".

Fashion brands around the world have pledged to improve diversity at all levels of their companies. But nearly three out of four board positions are held by white men, according to a 2019 analysis of data collected as part of a study of women in the workplace.

Kailyn Stammers, a 23-year-old black model, would like to know what Hilfiger is doing to ensure that everyone is represented in all areas.

And he replies: "I fought decisive battles with directors who worked with us, with designers who worked with us, because they told me that this or that young woman does not belong on the runway for certain reasons. And I said to them: Look, my name is written on the door. You work for me. We do what I want to do.”

This year's fashion shows were the most diverse ever; 43 percent of the jobs went to models of color.

In 2020, models from diverse backgrounds appeared on half of the covers of international magazines - an increase of 12 percent over the previous year.

However, this apparent increase was not matched by a behind-the-scenes increase.

In the UK, designers of color hold less than 1 in 10 jobs.

Hilfiger says he makes sure his brand is "equally diverse and inclusive on the catwalk and behind the scenes as well."

"I want to be known as someone who does and doesn't just sell words. I know that I alone will not be able to make change. I hope the whole industry will change. It's not just diversity that shows up in ad campaigns, not just on the runway, but It should run like a river through the entire company."

I'd Like Us to Take Care of Each Other

Halima is proud to have brought modest fashion to a global audience and to be a model that hijabi girls look up to. "When I started modeling, I felt that this step would open the door for many girls in my community. I had never had the experience of flipping through a magazine and seeing a woman wearing a hijab - a woman who looked like me."

However, despite her rapid rise to fame, Halima eventually felt that the industry was not compatible with the religion of Islam she professes.

So she wants to make changes in other areas.

"I'm looking for other industries and other fields where there is not a strong presence of Muslim women. I'm looking for how I can break the stereotype again, just like I did in fashion. For example, I'm thinking about how I can be the first in the film industry, or write children's books about refugee crisis".

Halima hopes to have more conversations about diversity in the fashion industry, and to have the models join the conversation. "Above all, I want it to be an inclusive conversation," she says. "I want us to care about each other and for diversity to be real, on and off the stage."

"The future of fashion seems very promising," she adds.